Discussion in ' Modifications And Maintenance ' started by joebush44Oct 6, Log in or Sign up. Clutch Recommendation? Likes Received: 1, Trophy Points: I believe a clutch install will be on my agenda for this winter. Eventually, my goal is to be around whp. The clutch began slipping while Nuke was tuning it with e I'm just running pump 92 for now to try to nurse the clutch till winter. I am more concerned with keeping it as streetable as possible as far as clutch feel goes.
Any recommendations on what to get, taking future build plans into consideration? Likes Received: Trophy Points: I'm currently at awhp on RS Motors dyno. Jim COct 6, I have act street hd clutch setup in my 02 Wrx. It works well but is a very heavy clutch. JasonoJordanOct 6, Clutchmaster FTW.
Very stock feeling pedal feel from their special pressure plates, great prices, and mine is holding up well thus far FX TMFOct 7, Nhibbs likes this. Probably want to step up to the FX - sprung 6 puck. Yes, it is very grabby and engagement is quick, but you'll get used to it Decisions, decisions.
I told myself I'd want to stay way from any "puck" designed discs due to the harsh engagement. Just not sure which way to go. These all have similarly rated torque specs. The SB is the least expensive option of the three, full face disk for smoother engagement this is a street car for the most part and is rated for nearly as much tq as the other two.
Also, NF recommended SB, so that has to say something!Discussion in ' Modifications And Maintenance ' started by prezawagonNov 23, Log in or Sign up. Likes Received: 49 Trophy Points: So, since I don't want to end up with burnt valves down the road, I was thinking about inspecting the valve clearance like the maintenance schedule says at k.
There's not much room down there by the looks of it. Also, is this a DIY job, or are there some special tools involved? Any advantage to adjusting the valves at the same time as doing the timing belt? Actually, I'm tempted to yank the motor and just do the t-belt, valves and clutch at the same time. Although, the clutch isn't slipping yet, but I have k miles on it, 80k at stage Any thoughts and ideas? Likes Received: 93 Trophy Points: I have not personally done it in the car but Alldata says it can be done.
You should have enough room to get the feeler gauge in once the valve covers are off.
There is a special tool which allows you to remove the shims with the cams in. Though its rather spendy. When you have the belt off you can remove the cam while leaving the engine in. So yes its prolly best to do the belt at the same time you check clearances. Threshld1Nov 23, Likes Received: 24 Trophy Points: Most of the 03's are shimmed as well. The build dates as per shimless buckets are sketchy as far as the catalog goes. It's more likely that almost none of the 03's are shimless, but starting in 04, all of them are.
It is a DIY job if you have some basic tools, a feeler gauge, and patience. If you decide to tackle this yourself, just make sure the engine is around room temp before you go checking any clearances. Thanks for the information. I'd really like to try to tackle this myself and learn how to do it, but depending on how much time I can get off from work or how littleI might just have to hire someone or at least get some help. Likes Received: 15 Trophy Points: I honestly feel that the two to three hours it takes to pull the motor is very worth it.
Your back will thank you. A nice caliper is also accurate enough to measure the shims. I use a Mitutoyo Absolute Digimatic. Threshld1Nov 24, Likes Received: 3 Trophy Points: It looks like you're new here.How-To Subaru WRX Clutch and Flywheel install (engine left in)
If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons! Howdy, Stranger! Sign in or Register. On Edmunds. Visit Edmunds How-To Guides. Service Centers in. Browse Forums by:. What Edmunds Says Pros. February edited October in Subaru. At K the clutch finally gave way. Since this is my first stick shift, I can see this happening. Question I have: 1. Does it make sense to replace it with a STi clutch, and what will this do for me? Car is stock otherwise.
Is one heavier than the other? Just a couple of questions. Car has been great otherwise including other issues I have posted. February I believe they are different clutches. Personally I recommend the Exedy Performance clutch, it's still organic but is a bit heavier pedal feel and better gripping force. No problemo. That's the clutch we use on the Legacy Race car, great stuff.
You might also look into an exedy lightened flywheel at the same time as the trans will be apart anyway. They are also not too agressive for street use and allow a bit more HP to get to the wheels. Brought the car in. The Clutch plate is gone, and the flywheel needs to be replaced missing a tooth on the flywheel. This is my first stick shift, so probably not too surprising probably too much coasting on the clutch and grinding. They are dropping the Tranny which I guess is needed for the Subis.
Just curious. Regardless I am looking forward to the lighter clutch!!!! Does this look reasonable? As for the flywheel being lighter from Subaru, I don't think Subaru has a lightened flywheel.About two weeks ago my WRX started stalling the engine when I would push in the clutch and shift to neutral as I came to a stop.
It seems like as the engine comes up to temperature, it looses its ability to keep the engine at idle. Eventually I have to hold the throttle cracked open at idle to keep it running.
If I coast, in gear, up to a stop and disengage the clutch just as engine RPM reaches hot-idle, I can keep it running, no problem. But if I come to a stop quickly and push in the clutch, the engine will immediately stall. There is NO high idle, only a gradual reduction of idle speed as the engine warms up. I haven't done much fiddling lately, besides replacing the MAF and front O2 sensors. Doing some research pointed to the IACV being gummed up. My drive to work involves about two miles of surface streets until I get to the freeway onramp, then about 8 miles of highway.
There are three stop signs between my house and the freeway and about as many between the freeway offramp and my work. Same story after driving on the highway, when I pulled up to a stop after exiting, the engine stalled. I decided to just bite the bullet and replace the IACV with a new one. Same story. The engine started fine, but with each stop sign between my house and the freeway onramp, the engine would idle lower and lower until it stalled at the onramp.
After the IACV, most folks suggest checking for vacuum leaks. I haven't done this yet, but I'm very doubtful that there are any. I haven't taken anything apart recently, save the new sensors, and the car was running perfectly normally up until two weeks ago. I plan to do some data logging tomorrow on my way to and from work, and will post the results here.
Check for a Vacuum leak. Don't have to mess with them for them to split. Ahhh, I knew I was forgetting to mention something Was it doing it before you replaced the MAF? The dieing out could be an unmetered air leak anywhere between the MAF and the heads, or it could be a bad signal coming from the MAF. What's the code reader live data for MAF flow at idle? You could compare that to a known good car. If you replaced all the hoses, could one have not been clamped tight enough and it slipped partway off under boost?
I know gen1 EJ's would stall coming up to a quick stop if the clutch switch wasn't working, but gen 2's they changed the tuel cut coast to idle fueling strategy and eliminated the switch. Did you swap out the turbo inlet hose? Did you replace all the vacuum hoses with Subaru hoses? The parts store cheapo hoses don't last long. Have had a few of those break again after even just a few months.
The MAF and front o2 sensor were replaced as maintenance items. Had been throwing an o2 code under sustained WOT, but those was replaced months ago. I'll be doing some data logging on the way home from work today, so I'll have the MAF voltage data for review then.
Most of the hoses have either a worm gear clamp on them, or at least two zip ties. The complex molded hoses were replaced with OEM rubber and the simpler ones were replaced with silicone. The inlet hose has been replaced with a Perrin inlet, all connections zip tied or clamped. I was finally able to capture the behavior in a log file but will have to attach the link later, can't copy paste for some reason.
Are there any useful parameters that I left out?
As you can see, my engine speed plummets to zero after hitting the clutch as I slow for a stoplight.EXEDY cerametallic clutches are designed to handle the abuse of high power modified engines. Our cerametallic friction material can handle much more abuse than stock type disc assemblies without slipping and fading.
All EXEDY Stage 2 cerametallic clutch discs have sprung center dampers to reduce the impact and shock loads transmitted through the drivetrain. Cushion Button Disc The remarkable Cushion Button Disc combines cerametallic button facing with marcel cushion springs to maintain comfortable driving while supporting a respectable amount of power.
The Cushion Button Disc is currently available for limited applications, however more fitments will be released in the near future. Clutch Cover These clutch covers are designed to achieve a clamping load that is approx. Ductile material is used for all pressure plates and, high burst strength can be achieved in all temperature ranges.
Which means, when you buy these products, you can be confident they are certified for use in competitive motorsports.
Images May Not be Vehicle Specific. For Display Purposes Only. Search by Part Number.Login to Your Account. Remember Me? Results 1 to 9 of 9. Thread: JDM Forester 4. JDM Forester 4. It is starting to get a bit notchy, but it does have a refurbished center diff in it because I swapped out the original one that was failing and locking up once hot.
Four Seasons Engine Cooling Fan for 2000-2015 Subaru Outback - Belts Clutch yv
I am thinking about doing a swap to a 4. I know I need the rear end to match, but I am not sure about the clutch, flywheel and axle situation. I would love to do the DR swap but am worried the NA trans would not take the power. Based on some calculations the gearing would put me just a few hundred rpm over the original gearing. Subaru made some changes to the hydraulics in 03 with a dampening device and from what I can find a heavier flywheel in the later models.
I am wondering about the axles as well, I can get the forester ones with the trans and diff for a little more money. I know that the axles currently are in good shape and will not fit the trans unless I split my old case and split the new case to put in axle stubs, at the same time I might as well do a front LSD diff. I think that the forester axles are too long. Thanks for for the help, Paul. Don't like seeing these ads? Register on the DIrally. What model forester is the trans out of?
The wrx's and sti's that had 4. I recommend any turbo jdm 4. Nice little upgrade for low cost. Basically, if you have a pull type trans, get another pull type trans, it will keep things a bit more simple. Original Poster. Also it does not have the male front stubs, so I would have to do something for the axles.
I am considering the OBX front diff and swapping in my axles at the same time then I could use my current axles and get a limited slip front diff for a little over See our Assertiveness pages for more information. Look after your physical well-being: People are better able to cope with stress when their bodies are healthy.
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